A city steeped in layers of history, and the epicentre of Sikh spiritualism, the Golden Temple. The streets of the old town are captivating, the markets lively, the people warm and the food is really lip-smacking good.

It’s also a city that invites more sombre contemplation, at the memorial at the site of the infamous Jallianwala Bagh massacre, the excellent Partition Museum sensitively telling painful political and personal narratives, and one of the best military history museums of Asia, highlighting the skirmishes and wars of the Indian Armed Forces with Pakistan and China.

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